In chūsen (注染), dye is poured through folded layers of cloth from a long-spouted kettle. Resist paste defines the pattern before the dyeing begins. Following those stages makes the white areas, coloured motifs and gradients easier to understand. Our HMJ 2026 article provides broader craft-fair context.
What is chūsen?
Chūsen is a dyeing method in which dye passes through folded layers of resist-pasted cloth. The stencil is used to apply the paste and lifted away before dyeing. Dye is applied from both sides of the stack, producing colour visible on both faces of the fabric.
Honzome (本染) is often translated as “true dyeing”, referring to dye entering the fibres. Use the maker’s process description to identify a textile; an irregular edge alone does not establish handwork. The washi guide follows another material through its making.
From Edo dye houses to Meiji yukata
The Kantō Chūsen Industrial Cooperative’s history distinguishes two developments: early pour-dyeing by Edo indigo dyers, and the modern chūsen technique developed in Osaka during the Meiji period and then brought to Tokyo. The Osaka cooperative’s account explains that later development. Both belong in the history.
Tenugui circulated in Edo as greetings, keepsakes and commissioned designs for performers and shops. Chūsen later came to be used for yukata fabric as well, becoming associated with Tokyo’s summer textiles. Our summer objects guide considers other seasonal choices.
How a chūsen tenugui is made
The sequence combines skilled handwork with equipment for preparation, suction, washing, and finishing. In outline:
- Stencil. The pattern is cut into treated paper, often shibugami hardened with persimmon tannin. Bridges or fine mesh support isolated parts of the design.
- Cloth preparation. Cotton is scoured and bleached, a process called wazarashi (和晒), then prepared for even dyeing.
- Stencil-pasting — katatsuke (型付け). A spatula spreads resist paste through the framed stencil onto the cloth. The stencil is lifted, the fabric folded back, and pasting repeated. Paste recipes vary: the Tokyo cooperative describes seaweed-and-clay mixtures and rice-based pastes. Sawdust helps keep the pasted layers from sticking.
- Pour-dyeing. The folded, pasted cloth sits on a dyeing bed. Dye is poured from a long-spouted kettle (yakan), with suction below drawing it through the layers. The stack is turned and dyed from the other side.
- Rinsing — mizumoto (水元). The resist paste and any excess dye are washed out in plenty of water, and the finished pattern appears.
- Drying. After washing and removing excess water, the cloth is hung on racks to air-dry before inspection and finishing.
Bokashi, sashiwake, Hosokawa: color by hand
Isshoku-zome uses a single colour. In sashiwake-zome, walls of resist paste separate areas for different dyes. Bokashi-zome blends colours into gradients, while Hosokawa-zome uses layered or repeated dyeing. Tools such as a guiding stick (tsuki-bō) help direct the flow.
A controlled gradient is an intended part of the pattern. Small variations can occur, but blotches or uncontrolled bleeding are not automatically desirable signs of handwork.
Chūsen today
Tokyo Honzome Chūsen received National Traditional Craft designation on 26 October 2023. The Kantō Chūsen Industrial Cooperative, founded in 1951, represents production across Tokyo, Gunma and Tochigi. Read the designated craft’s requirements alongside the particular workshop’s account.
Workshops continue to make tenugui, yukata and other textiles. Their process photographs and demonstrations can show how pasting, pouring and washing relate.
FAQ
What's the difference between chūsen and a printed tenugui?
Chūsen draws dye through the cloth and dyes the stack from both sides. Printing methods vary, so the reverse colour or a soft edge alone is not a reliable test. Ask for the maker’s process description.
Is a chūsen tenugui really the same on both sides?
Both faces are coloured, but text and directional motifs appear reversed on the other face. Small differences in colour can occur too.
How do you care for chūsen-dyed fabric?
Follow the maker’s label. New pieces may release loose dye, so separate washing in cool water is commonly advised at first. Avoid unapproved bleach, prolonged soaking and strong direct sun; dry as instructed. A specific fabric or dye may need a different routine.
Sources: the Kantō Chūsen Industrial Cooperative, the Osaka Orisen cooperative, and Traditional Crafts Aoyama Square. This article is a researched process guide.
